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Installation of '82-'85 Toyota halfshafts on a 240-280Z with R200 diff
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By viewing this web page, you agree to not hold resonsible the poster of this page for any damage to your vehicle or injury
to yourself that might come from downloading and following the suggestions listed here.
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View from the right rear. Those are early '79 280ZX rotors and calipers with custom brackets |
Diff flanges painted and ready to go. |

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The diff flange spindles are different lengths |
Left side diff end ready to go |

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The flanges simply pop out of the diff with a puller or wedging a chisel behind them. |
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View from the right. I used 3/8-24x1 Grade8 bolts |

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On the diff end, put the lockwashers under the head of the bolt to avoid them hitting the diff case |
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Sliding inner end of left shaft before shortening |

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Originally, the inner race seated against a circlip in the left groove. |
After cutting 1/2" off the end |

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The inner race now is slid all the way on the splines until it bottoms. |
Cut the new groove by lightly holding the cut off disc against the end of the inner race, running it in 1/16",
and rotating the shaft around as you cut into the splines. The inner race is symmetrical, so you can put it back on
backwards to give the balls a fresh surface to ride on.
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Drawing of the Hub end weld-on adapter |

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The dimensions are metric in millimeters |
Make the adapters from SAE 950A or a similar high strength steel. It would be a good idea to make them
extra thick and cut off the excess on a lathe, along with cutting the pilot diameter, after welding to get a flat mounting
face. On the hub end, add 1/8" thick washers (trimmed to fit and welded in) behind the adapters because this adapter
has to be a little thin to get the shaft in.
Drawing of the Diff end weld-on adapter |

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The small holes are only for #10 screws that will hold the adapters to the flanges during welding. |
My Ford 347 V8 & T5 trans powered '75 280Z |

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Those are Billet Specialties 17" wheels (8" F, 9.5" R) |
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